Digest autumn/winter collection 2011

Starting point and Development

概念发展

三角 triangle
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方尖碑 obelisk
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纪念碑 monument
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通道 the passages (a monumental sculpture for German writer Walter Benjamin)
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通路 passage (a transit space )
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聚合体 polymer

消化春夏 2011AW

成衣系列 消 [ monument 纪念碑 ]

概念系列 化 [ passages 通路 ]

Digest autumn/winter collection 2011

RTWline Xiao [ monument ]

Conceptual line Hua [ passages ]

RTW Line

成衣系列 “消” ［ Monument纪念碑 ］

>什么是纪念碑

纪念碑是“非楼屋类纪念体”“有记忆的石头”，由这个性质看来，纪念碑是一种文明产物，而非文化产物，真正伟大的纪念碑是不会显现出任何时代或者是地域痕迹，她也不会是教堂或者广场，尽管它们也存在纪念碑性，因为纪念碑本身不提供居留空间，她更像是一条封闭的走廊或者是通道，仅连接和记录发生在她被建立到你站在她面前的这段时间和由此产生的记忆。她是和平之所，在她身边的人能感到平静，并能凝视过去。

Why “Monument”?

A Monument is a “freestanding, non-building commemoration”, or a “stone with memories”. It is a result of civilization rather than culture – its significance lies in the non-existence of any historical or regional traces; it is not a church nor a square – regardless of their universal attribution to commemoration – for no shelter or standing space is provided. A closer resemblance might be a corridor or a passage that link and record memories: fragments from the moment of establishment till the second someone stand in front of it. The peacefulness it houses provides the ambience for reflections on the past.

纪念碑的外形总是高大宏伟，充满强烈纯在感，但她带来的气息是平和的，这是我认为的纪念碑中的雌雄性。不为庆祝，不为纪念，没有政治，没有崇拜。 peaceful，是衣服要有的表情。

While its grand contour claims recognition of its presence, a monument always breathes gently – the androgyny temperament that I seize. Not for celebrations, no politics, no idolization, but peacefulness, an expression that clothes should embrace.

>衣服造型

>Contour

落肩，软性雕塑质感

不用垫肩，削弱传统填充物带来的衣物廓形，是为强调人体本身的纪念碑性；但在配件上做人为填充，用以完成立体造型，是为表达纪念碑是人造物的属性。

Drop shoulder, soft sculptural style

Instead of using shoulder pads, the design gives a definition to the natural shape of shoulder and emphasize the idea of human as monument. As for accessories, stuffed pieces finish the look with a solid touch, to show that the monument is essentially man-made.

>关于“制服性”的削弱

>On the Dilution of Uniform Affection

所有功能性服装和当代服装样式都来自军服／制服，这就是为什么我们会有军服／制服情节。制服式样（uniform style）也成为一种设计和时尚元素。但这本不应该导致某个地区或国家得社会着衣是“制服式”。但有些国家，比如日本，已然成为制服社会。我们希望在可能的情况下，控制“制服”。

All functional apparel and contemporary styles come from military uniform and other kinds of uniforms, which explains our obsession for military uniform / uniforms. While uniform is accepted as a basic design and trend element worldwide, it should not lead to a national or regional social dressing format; but in some countries like Japan, uniform has become a part of the social scene. We hope to keep “uniform” under certain level of control.

2011成都双年展国际设计展 [the Solutions 谋断有道] 参展作品

作品材料：棉花，涤纶，墨水

作品规格：2000mm*4000mm*2600mm （长宽高）

>>2011 Chengdu Biennale [The Solutions: International Design Exhibition]

Materials: cotton, polyester, ink

Dimensions: 2000mm*4000mm*2600mm (length*width*height)

Photography: Qiananrchy

Text: Dooling Jiang

post date: 2013/01/15