Digest spring /summer collection 2011

Digest spring /summer collection 2011

Starting point and Development

概念发展

圆
|
天
|
太阳
|
光
|
向日葵
|
折纸
|
鹤
|
草

Circle
|
Sky
|
Sun
|
Light
|
Sunflower
|
Origami
|
Crane
|
Grass

消化春夏 2011SS

成衣系列 消 [ sophist 诡辩者 ]

概念系列 化 [light lost 光蚀 ]

消化，首先是一个积极的过程。
每天我们都在进行各种消化，没有这个过程，生存便失去可能。消化同时也是一场选择，是身体和思维通过自我 分析完成的选择，是本能。这就是“消化”想要传递的设计理想 —— 积极，选择，本能。

Digest spring/summer collection 2011

RTW line Xiao [ sophist ]

Artistic line Hua [ light lost ]

RTW line Xiao

成衣系列 “消” ［诡辩者 sophist］

诡辩者sophist 这个词来自精妙 sophisticated 诡辩者原指智者，是论述知识与美德的人，不过由于他们偏重缺乏道德基础的浅薄智慧，因此具有了贬义。当下的时尚在我看来正是一门诡辩的学科，为道德而生的衣服，却被作为时尚的载体，不断挑战道德的底线来制造关注和话题。作为服装设计师，吸引我的一直都是衣服本身所具有的表情和智慧。在古希腊，衣服是智慧的象征，是指引他们到达光明的向导，只有智者才可以不着任何底衣直接穿上衣服。

Sophist is derived from the term sophisticated. The term originally refers to the wise, those who theorize knowledge and mores. However, their inadequate wisdom due to the lack of moral foundation, therefore the term sophist also has negative connotations. Fashion today may seem like a study of quibbles. Clothing made for morals is now a vehicle for fashion that constantly challenges the moral bottom line to instigate concerns and topics. As a fashion designer, my interest has always been the expression and wisdom in clothing. In the ancient Greek culture, clothes symbolized wisdom, it is a guide to reach the light, and only the wise could wear clothes without under garments.

在衣服版式［pattern］的切入点上，我选择了圆形。“消” 系列的主要款式，从内部结构到外部造型，皆以圆为强制出发点完成。至于为什么是圆形，我无法给出解释，就是本能选择。之前完成的一个系列 “where is your border” 便和方形有关，也许下一季，我会尝试三角形。

I have chosen the circle as a point of entry for pattern. The main style for “Xiao” series primarily was born out of the circle, either its internal structure or external form. I cannot offer an explanation for my choice of the circle as it was made instinctively. My previous series, Where is Your Border is based on the square, perhaps the next season would be the triangle.

关于折纸部分的延伸是因为她的东方身份，并且折纸［origami］都是从方形开始，由折叠后形成的三角完成最终物的形态，她们可以和圆对话，互成几何三元素。折纸概念主要运用在配饰上［包，图样 ］。

The continuation with the origami element is relevant to its oriental identity, moreover, origami are made with piece of square paper, once it’s corners are folded in, it becomes the resulting shape of the object that may dialogue with the circle – establishing the three elements of geometry. The concept of origami is mostly adopted for accessories [bags, graphic patterns].

在材质的选择上，有东方气质的材料和传统纹样的面料，比如郑板桥竹图样丝绵，扎染图样印棉，各种丝、仿丝，纤维纸；有西方审美体系的颜色，高纯度蓝，绿，银。

I have always associated the circle with the sky, most probably because of the Ancient Chinese saying of “Sky is round, and earth is flat”. There was the sky, then came the sun, giving off light. Light is the point of inception in designing the “Hua” line.

想，如果我们看到的光是她的正面，那么光的背面是什么？ 光带来的应该是光明和发展，那么她的背面，大概就是黑暗和衰弱 。“蚀”在中文意里有“亏耗”的意思，英文对应译为 “lose”，［light lost 光蚀］系列就是这么延伸出来的，同时也是我对“消化”这个概念更深意的表达。

Imagine, if we perceive the front of the light, then what would its back be? The light should bring forth glory and development. Therefore, its back is probably darkness and decay. “Erosion” in Chinese also implies “natural loss”, the “light lost”line is derived from this idea. Moreover, it’s my extended expression on the concept of “digest”.

Photography: Qiananrchy

Text: Dooling Jiang

Translation: Fiona He

post date: 2013/01/15